Christmas at St. Paul's

So we've got about three more days here. We've been paying our last respects to some of our favorite places. On Sunday we had a special lunch in the gorgeous Victoria and Albert Museum restaurant/cafe. Then we spent some good time at the nearby Natural History Museum. On Monday we went to a holiday dealio at the Science Museum. On Wednesday, we had a great and final visit to the National Gallery (where Lily worked on yet another copy of a very large and moving painting of Lady Jane Grey as she is about to get decapitated!) Yesterday Brennie and I made a final visit to the British Museum. Today we had a fun late afternoon/early evening visit to the Tower of London. The Tower was virtually empty. We got to view the crown jewels over and over again. (Those of you who have seen them know that you basically pass them by on a moving walkway. We got to repeat the process many times over.)

Last night was a really special time. We went to an annual free Christmas concert at the majestic St. Paul's Cathedral featuring the cathedral choir, many incredibly talented musicians, some "celebrity readers" (I'd only heard of one of them), etc. We lined up outside the cathedral an hour beforehand just as the rain was turning to snow. Shortly thereafter a person from St. Paul's (who was counting every person in line) informed us that we were fourteen people beyond the maximum capacity of the cathedral and that our ability to enter was a "maybe." We waited another half hour. It was very windy, very cold, and snowing. Sure enough, when the fourteenth person ahead of us entered the cathedral, they stopped the line! A long fifteen minutes or so later (in the freezing, windy, snowy weather, with poor Brendan nearly in tears about his freezing cold feet and toes), they told us we could enter. We didn't have a direct view of the stage, but we did have a marvelous view of the cathedral ceiling and various soaring archways all decorated with incredible paintings, sculptures, and other artwork. The service did not disappoint. It was a wonderful combination of carols (sung by everyone), songs performed by the choir, and readings from the Christmas narrative and other sources. A "proper" way of celebrating the holiday!

I'll attach a few pictures from outside of St. Paul's (no cameras allowed inside) and of our time this evening at the Tower of London.

Tomorrow we begin packing. We've got a few more posts planned between now and Tuesday (our departure date). So stay tuned!

St. Paul's from the side (in line). (Unfortunately I didn't get any good shots of the dome at night.)

St. Paul's from the front, after the concert.

E and kids in front of the Tower of London. (I forgot to mention that it snowed again today! Not for long, but it came down hard and it was cold enough to stick.)

Tower Bridge.

The bridge a couple hours later.

Some Christmas decorations at the Tower.

Hangin' in there.

Charles, Camilla, and Oliver (the musical)

Last night we were walking from the Piccadilly tube station to a theater to see a production of the musical Oliver which began at 7:30 (the real Oliver stayed home with a babysitter). At about 7:15, we were about to cross a busy street when we heard some major commotion heading our way. It turned out to be a throng of rowdy and fairly sketchy-looking student protestors expressing their opposition to some colossal university fee hikes recently passed by the British Parliament. We raced across the street to avoid getting caught up in the mob (and so that we could make it to theater on time--we were in a bit of a rush). Now, as you may have heard or seen, a Rolls Royce carrying Prince Charles and his wife Camilla was attacked last night in London by a similar group of protestors (see the widely published photo below). When we initially heard this news, we didn’t think much of it (there have been a lot of such protests in the city lately). However, we recently learned that the attack occurred at 7:20 about a five minute walk from the Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square area! So we figure this must have been the group we crossed paths with! (I don’t know if I would’ve described them as “feral thugs,” as the Prime Minister did, but they were pretty unruly looking and sounding--not what you’d expect when you think of British student protestors.) Anyway, this is certainly our closest brush with any living history in London.

More importantly, the musical was amazing! We had gone to the theater earlier in the day to see whether we could get some day-of discounted tickets. The person at the box office told me that they don’t discount any tickets. But after I told him I’d take four tickets in the upper balcony for 25 pounds each, he proceeded to explain that they’d had a cancellation in one of their “boxes,” and that he’d give us those tickets for the same price. I was very grateful, but didn’t know until we arrived for the show what a favor he’d done us. We had our own private box with four chairs and an incredible, close-up view of the stage. It was amazing and a highlight of the trip for all of us. This musical occupies a special place in Evans (Erinn’s maiden name) family history, we’ve been listening to the soundtrack over and over since we arrived in London, we’ve read different versions of the story to the kids (not the Dickens one though), and they’ve watched two video productions of it. So we were prepared! Everything about the production was wonderful: the acting, the singing, the choreography, the set, etc., were all outstanding. But I think we all agree that Fagan really stole the show! A very delightful and exciting evening.

P.S. In the spirit of "realism," Erinn thought I should mention that in the span of less than a week, we've experienced a major power outage and our boiler has died. Normally these things wouldn't be a big deal, but since it's been *freezing* the loss of power and the loss of the boiler have meant a loss of any heat! So for a little while we were all bundling up and using the kitchen oven to try to generate some warmth (though we couldn't even do this much when the power was out). So it's not all roses. Thanks for the reminder honey. :)

Camilla and Charles looking horrified as the protestors chanted "off with their heads" (seriously).

This one is for our Indian food-loving friends, taken in the subway station on our way to the theater. Something tells me they haven't rolled this one out in the LBC just yet.

The theater was in Covent Garden, which is decked out in Christmas decorations.

What are these commoners doing in the rich people's seats?

On the tube ride home.

Cambridge, Harry Potter, Peter Pan, and Oliver’s first hair cut

We made our final excursion out of the city last weekend – to Cambridge. It was a quick, one-day trip with my (Jason’s) students, but a very nice time. Cambridge was bustling, festive, and beautiful. Some highlights were the Fitzwilliam Museum (small by comparison with London museums, but a lot of great things to see, including impressive armor and ancient Egypt exhibits) and the King's College and Trinity College campuses and chapels. See below for some pics. We departed from and returned to the London King’s Cross train station, which Harry Potter fans will recognize as the departure point of Harry’s first trip to Hogwart’s. See below for what one finds at platform 9 ¾.

We also recently paid a visit to the famous Peter Pan statue in Kensington Gardens, which is quite close to where we’re living. Shortly after getting to London, Erinn read the original (un-Disneyfied) version by J.M. Barrie to the kids and they all found it delightful.

Finally, Oliver got his first haircut today. See below for some before and after photos.

We hope that you, our dear friends and family, are doing well. We’re going to try to pack in several things in our remaining 12 days here and will try to report on them now and then. Tomorrow night we plan to see the musical Oliver. It’s still cold here. I think it’s been a good two to three weeks (maybe more) since we’ve hit 40 degrees. But it’s not as cold as it was last week; and all the snow has melted.


Enjoy the photos …

King's College, Cambridge, from across the River Cam (the name of the river predates and is the namesake of the city itself).

Punting on the Cam.

One of the magnificent stained glass panels in the King's chapel.

Another view from inside the chapel (check out the ceiling).

Inside Trinity College. (Philosophers: there are plaques and/or monuments honoring Wittgenstein, GE Moore, and Henry Sidgwick in the chapel.)

Lily caught fraternizing with the college girls. She thought she was SO cool hanging with the big girls.

Did you ever wonder what became of Harry's luggage cart once he passed through the wall?

The Peter Pan statue in Kensington Gardens. J.M. Barrie (the author) had it commissioned and placed in the exact location inside the gardens in which he imagined Peter living and playing as he was writing the story.

Oliver on a cold winter afternoon on the Thames. This and the photo below were taken after an unsuccessful attempt to see the Kew Gardens and Palace (the latter is only open in the summer; the former were closing 15 minutes after we got  there!).

This is the "just-before-my-first-haircut" photo. (While the curls look cute from the front, there was an everpresent nest-like tangled mass of hair on the back of his head. Sorry grandmas etc.)

Just after. What a big boy!

Lest you think he looked cuter with all the curls.

Finishing Strong

So, I just wanted to say that we're new at this. New at bracing ourselves for the rush of cold air as we open the door, new at chapped lips, cheeks and hands, new at even considering long underwear, new at that puffy feeling you get with multiple layers. My crazy kids actually admitted to not wanting to wear their down vests today for fear that they would look chubby or fat! What?? I promise that I really do keep my "does this make my butt look big?" thoughts to myself. These little loons are picking a fine time to develop any fashion sense. This newness is bringing about both bliss and some blahs. Going out has always had its challenges and required a little self talk for me (tube, 3 kids, you know....), but now the weather, as charming as the snow  is, can really slow us down. It's a real production getting out the door.

Ok, so now my mantra must be "finish strong." I read some quote recently that is pretty well known that states "when you tire of London you are tired of life" or something like that. That's motivation enough for me, at least I think it is. No, really, we are still loving so much about this experience, but, no, I wouldn't want it to last any longer- not unless I completely rearranged our world here and we really plugged in.

Some recent highs have been cracking up with Brendan and Lily as we read books like "Silly Ninky Nonk!" to Oliver- he's totally gripped by it ("The Pontipines decided to go for a ride on the Ninky Nonk- what a silly Ninky Nonk")- you try reading this without breaking into your best English accent.; seeing how much Brendan and Lily loved the movie "Singing in the Rain." Lily keeps saying, in a pretty good impersonation, "what do ya think I am, dumb or somethin'?" Ahhhhh, she is so decidedly un -British. I might just lose my mind trying to raise her here. Her loud and deep voice carry and her little pants droop- she had some interesting "plumber crack" tonight while making a snowman at this tree lighting and I, right or wrong, could just feel the English eyes boring into my backside (see, I was pretending not to know her.........); and lastly, playing the "that's so you" game that my kids have developed (and btw, this is getting very old right about now). Basically, my kids look at any advertisement or theater poster and find the least desirable or weirdest character and yell out "Oh, Mom" or "oh, Dad, that is soooo you," while pointing at said character. Of course we reciprocate and it's really a big dumb-fest, but with all this seriousness and appropriateness around us, we need a dumb-fest or 2, don't you agree? Quite. :)

We did get a mini Charlie Brown Christmas tree. We are looking forward to continuing the Jesse Tree tradition this year- it really has brought a lot to our experience of Christmas. Oh, and the pic below is Brendan feeling a little sick of the cold and me practicing my best parenting techniques before another tube ride.

Lots of love,
Erinn

More snow! (and tree-lighting in Trafalgar Square)

We woke up this morning to a blanket of snow over our neighborhood! I (Jason) went on a walk with Lily through Brompton Cemetery. Beautiful. I was then able to pay a visit (by myself, amazingly) to Westiminster Abbey (E and the kids had visited while E's mom was here). Also beautiful, and an amazing history -- the final resting place of countless poets and writers, the tomb of Elizabeth I and Mary I, the Coronation Chair, and so much more. Later in the day we all met up at the National Gallery on Trafalgar Square. After viewing some (beautiful) art, we went for dinner to Wagamama (a favorite noodle restaurant with several of London locations -- thanks to the Millsaps for the tip!). Not exactly beautiful, but delicious nonetheless. Then we walked back to Trafalgar Square for the annual tree-lighting service. (Each year, a tree, compliments of the city of Oslo, is lit in Trafalgar Square with accompanying carolers, speeches, and other festivities.) Beautiful as well. Overall, a rich, fun, and eventful day. The kind of day we'll be missing and remembering fondly in just three weeks' time. Pictures follow:

Brompton Cemetery.

Lily doing a snow angel in her sweat pants and thin, non-water-resistant jacket!

Westminster Abbey in the snow.

A lion in Trafalgar Square.

A view of Trafalgar Square and the Christmas tree from the front of the National Gallery.

The tree is lit!

Thanksgiving and California Dreamin’

It’s COLD here. I don’t think the local temp has emerged out of the 30s for a good week or so. But yesterday we finally had something to show for it – snow! It snowed off and on for most of the day. It wasn’t cold enough to stick much, but it was fun for all of us to see it coming down. This morning, I (Jason) walked with the kids through Brompton Cemetery, just around the corner from us, where there was actually a good bit of snow on the ground – enough to throw a few snowballs at least. While the snow is fun, the cold makes the routine parts of life even more challenging. So it’s hard not to be thinking fondly of the balmy Southern California weather!

We had a good Thanksgiving, but certainly missed being with family and friends. We began the day with breakfast at the Troubadour. This is a café (by day) and performance venue (by night) right near our flat that has a very interesting and fairly famous history (see here if you’re interested: http://www.troubadour.co.uk/). The place has lots of character and serves a great breakfast. Afterward, while Oliver napped, I took Brendan and Lily to St. Paul’s Cathedral, where we climbed the 500-600 steps to the very top of the dome, working up a good turkey dinner appetite. Later in the evening I hosted a Thanksgiving dinner for all 30 or so LMU students at a local BBQ restaurant called Bodeans that had advertised a traditional fixed menu Thanksgiving dinner. The place is owned by Americans, so they did a great job with the turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, cranberries, etc. The highlight (for me) was that they had American football playing live. For better or worse, it wasn’t until we walked in and saw football on the TV screen that it really felt like Thanksgiving!

See below for pics of these various events. We’re at three weeks and counting. We’re very excited about getting home, but we also sense the urgency of needing to make the most of our remaining days here.

Thanksgiving dinner with students at Bodeans.

E and OKB at dinner.

The Troubadour.

B & L outside St. Paul's Cathedral. (Note the dome in the background before looking at the next pic.)

B and L above the dome.

Brompton Cemetery after snowfall.

Boy in the bubble.